Berlin in brief

Christmas 2014.
The first time since coming to university that I didn't have Christmas exams, meaning that I could enjoy the run up to the holidays properly for a change. My housemates and I were in full Christmas mode. Fairy lights bedecked our living room, Hark Hear the Bells became our apartment anthem and Christmas jumpers were daily attire. But despite the spirit of the holidays flourishing inside our flat, something was missing outside..
Let's face it - the Christmas markets in Ireland are rather disappointing. The Docklands Festival was the best offering in recent years, but it was overpriced and lacking in atmosphere. The arrival of a host of wooden huts at St Stephen's Green last Christmas got my hopes up - a much better location and stalls that were actually festively decorated. Four hotdog stands and a Wok 'n' Roll later, my hopes were quenched. My Yuletide yearnings remained unsatisfied. 

The solution to my problem was clear - to get that Christmas kick I so craved, I'd have to travel to the motherland of the Christmas market - Germany. Berlin was a city I'd long wanted to visit, ever since I'd missed it on my inter-railing trip around East Europe four years ago. My boyfriend - although attracted more by the prospect of well-stocked record stores than mulled wine - had a similar desire, and so in the first week of our Christmas holidays, off we went to Berlin.

The markets did not disappoint. They were fabulous, from the lights, the stalls, the produce and the sheer amount of them - we visited three different ones, each far beyond anything we've had here in Dublin, and still there were plenty we didn't make it to. 
We drank mulled wine. We ate roast chestnuts. We zoomed down an icy hill on a rubber tire. 

The Christmas market at Gendarmenmarkt.

Delectable goodies on all sides..

 ..none more delectable than the Gluhwein, of course ;)

I'd have been satisfied by just visiting these markets and heading back to Ireland with a box of Vanillekipferl and my souvenir Gluhwein mug in tow. But Berlin has so much more to offer, and so we dragged ourselves away from the Christmas markets long enough to take in some of the other tourist attractions too.

I would highly recommend a visit to the Reichstag Dome. Set on the roof of the parlimentary buildings, you get a fantastic view across the city, and the Dome itself is spectacular. It requires booking in advance, but it's free (we love free things) and you get an audio guide to listen to as you walk in a spiral up the side of the Dome. The officials are a tad scary though. Eye contact discouraged.

We took in a 3 hour walking tour on our first day, which unfortunately also happened to be the coldest day of our trip (an emergency pit stop in H&M for wooly socks and gloves had to be made). There are all sorts of tours you can do, but we opted for the classic historical one with Sandeman's. This is also advertised as free, but really you're expected to give a donation of around €10, which is actually very reasonable given the length of the tour and the knowledge of the guides. The tour is not the most aesthetically pleasing, but it's extremely interesting and a great way to get an overview of the history of the city.

Pariser Platz, with Brandenburg Gate in the background

The Jewish Holocaust Memorial

Remnants of the Berlin Wall

We also visited the East Side Gallery, where the remains of the Wall are far more cheerful than those pictured above, and Museum Island, where a student ticket costs just €9 and gets you entry to four amazing museums. 

A section of the artwork at the East Side Gallery.

Renoir - Summertime at Alte Nationalgalerie

Sarcophagi at Neues Museum

Carved lions at the Pergamonmuseum

Of course, I couldn't do this post without talking about the food. Berlin is brimming with excellent restaurants and street food markets - but I think I'll let the photos do the talking here ;) There are some great Berlin food blogs you can consult if you need inspiration or want to find a particular type of cuisine - try Foodie Berlin and Berlin Food Stories.

Taiwanese bao and Berlin Balls at Street Food Thursday in Markthalle Neun, which boasts an impressive array of food stalls, each more delectable than the last. Decision-making at its most challenging.

Vietnamese pho at District Mot in Mitte

Baked pumpkin and potato with cranberry cream cheese at Neue Heimat 

Chocolate schnecke from Zeit Fur Brot

Brunch at Barcomi's Deli

No trip away would be complete without finding a scone and soy cappuccino..

I like to sample the local cuisine whenever I travel. But I'm going to be honest with you here - I'm not the biggest fan of sausage.

Now now, stop that, you dirty-minded divils. ;)
I'm not the type to wake up after a night on the Morgans and crave a dirty sausie sambo. Superquinn never won me over with their celebrated cylindrical sizzlers. 
But there's something about a juicy Berlin bratwurst that beggars belief..

Succulent, delicately spiced, served on fresh bread rolls to a pair of very cold, hungry Irish tourists.. It was sensational. It's not something that I would eat every day (certainly not now that I've gone vegetarian :P), but I couldn't go to Berlin and not sample this traditional cuisine.

In the same way, I felt I couldn't go to Berlin and not sample the traditional nightlife. Those of you who are into the dance scene will be aware that Berlin is revered as the current techno capital of the world. It's home to some world-famous clubs like Berghain and Tresor, where top techno DJs like Ben Klock and Marcel Dettman are residents and which are notorious for their strict door policy. Tips for getting in include: Don't speak in the line. Don't be too drunk. Don't go up in a group with more than 2 boys. Don't be a tourist. Not a lot to ask now, is it?
We were there mid-week, meaning most clubs were shut until the weekend, but Tale Of Us were playing in one of the large clubs, Watergate, on the Wednesday night. We decided to chance our arms at getting in. Sure, two pale, ginger(ish) Irish people, with a bottle of wine downed on the U-Bahn and not a word of German between them - what could go wrong?
We joined the queue around midnight, watching nervously as some people walked back down the line looking dejected. We made friends with the toothless homeless man wobbling up and down the queue in search of alcohol. We practised saying "Ich spreche kein Deutsch". We shared some vodka with the alt-looking Slovenian pair behind us in the queue (until the homeless man caught wind of it and that was the end of that). And finally, around 12.45, we were at the door. Lines prepared, IDs in hand, expecting but dreading rejection... 

Hours of stomping techno later, we emerged into the early-morning light, shells of our former selves. Inside, the music thumped on, the fists pumped on, but we weary travellers slumped on home. Watergate had defeated us, but what a glorious battle it had been..

So inconspicuous..

Berlin may not be as warm or welcoming as some other European cities in terms of its climate, its people and its architecture, but it more than makes up for it with its history, its diversity and its arts and culture (yes, techno counts under culture). Normally after I visit a new city, I don't intend to return in the near future - I'm on a world mission, you know. That Scratch Map ain't gonna scratch itself ;) - but Berlin is an exception to that rule. I'd gladly return at the next opportunity that arose - plus a few extra pairs of socks and minus any notions of vegetarianism ;)

cinnamon and chia seed pancakes :)

...also known as oatmeal banana pancakes. But cinnamon and chia sounds much more exotic ;)

These are really easy to whip up and they taste deeelicious. I honestly prefer them to normal pancakes. They are pretty healthy too - flourless and sugar-free - which means of course that you can eat twice as much as usual. That's my logic at least.. ;)

As Soulja Boy would say, stacks on stacks on stacks..   

Ingredients

Serves 2

 - 2 bananas
 - 2 eggs
 - 1/2 cup oats 
 - 1/2 tsp baking powder
 - 1/2 tsp cinnamon 
 - 1 tsp chia seeds (you can use 1 tsp ground linseed if you don't have chia)
 - pinch of salt

Method

1. Place all of the ingredients in a blender. 
2. Blend to combine. You can choose how smooth you want the mix to be - I like to keep a little bit of bite to the oats.
3. Heat a non-stick frying pan over a medium heat. Fold a piece of kitchen towel in half and moisten with oil (I use coconut). Carefully rub the pan with oiled towel.
4. Using a tablespoon, place 2-3 spoonfuls of the batter on the pan, depending on the size of your pan. Make sure to only put one spoonful per pancake.
5. Fry until golden-brown on both sides.
6. Serve with your choice of topping - maple syrup, fresh fruit, yogurt, coconut, almond butter.. The choices are endless! 
I like mine served with low fat vanilla yogurt, blueberries, banana, toasted coconut, a dollop of almond butter and a drizzle of honey. Mmmmm...
To make a really quick berry coulis (as seen in the picture below), place a handful of mixed berries in a bowl and sprinkle a little sugar on top. Heat in a microwave on high for two minutes, stirring after one minute. 

Top with some toasted almonds and low-fat greek yogurt. If you're not drooling yet, you need your taste buds checked. 

jungle boogie

Apologies for the brief blogging hiatus over the holiday period - my laptop was lost somewhere amidst a deluge of turkey leftovers, Celebration wrappers and one too many bottles of vino. Of course, I could have taken some time out of the many hours spent watching Harry Potter to do something useful with my life - but that would have been a betrayal to the spirit of Christmas, I feel. ;)

I will have a nice European travel post coming your way in the next while, but to tide us over till then, I thought I'd share this painting I did for my boyfriend as part of his Christmas present. He studies Botany in college and has really taken a shine to the old plants, so I decided to draw on the works of Henri Rousseau and create this jungle scene for him..

There's us in the middle there, having a right old laugh. 

I used acrylic paints and colouring pencils, and the page size is A2. It's been a long time since I painted something of this size, and I have to say I'd forgotten how much I enjoy it. It's so relaxing to throw on a record, light some candles or incense and just paint away for a couple of hours - only while wearing old clothes, of course. There is absolutely nothing relaxing about realising you've gotten white acrylic paint all over said boyfriend's good Superdry hoody. Oops. All in the name of art, eh..? :P

This isn't the type of song I'd choose to listen to while painting now, but if you feel like having your own lil jungle boogie, here's Kool and The Gang to take it away:

wrong until you make it right..

This is one of those songs I put on when I'm feeling a bit off. There's just something so calming and comforting about it.. Maybe it's the tambourine. Maybe it's the synth effect on the vocals that give it a dreamy, surreal mood. Or maybe it's the repetition and hammering-home of the message - that everything will in fact be alright. :) 

What's your go-to pick-me-up song?

caramel without the cavities ;-)

I'm on a Psychiatry rotation at the moment, and though I'm really enjoying it, Tuesdays are a day that all my group used to dread. We have lectures from 9-5 in a stuffy little room in St Pat's on some pretty heavy-going topics. Come 5pm (come 3pm even), brains are fried and at least half the class is asleep/playing on their phones/AWOL. 

One of the girls in our group was more astute. Anna observed our battles to stay awake, watched our incessant scrolling through Facebook, took note of all those tactical toilet breaks. She recognised the need to make Tuesdays a little less heinous and a little more delicious. And so Treat Tuesday was born! 

Each week, 3 or 4 people from the group bake something and bring it in to share at our 11 o'clock break. Offering have included brownies, cookies, fifteen's (a delicious Northern Irish treat), malteser squares and a very impressive Pavlova and Yule Log (although maternal involvement was suspected in this case). The ensuing sugar high is enough to keep you going till, well, at least 3.30pm. 

When my turn to bake for Treat Tuesday came around, I decided to experiment. I had wanted to try out date caramel for awhile and happened to have a bag of dates in my cupboard at the time (pilfered from home, of course :P), so I thought I'd try a healthy version of the delicious classic millionaire shortbread. 
I was a bit worried about how they would go down amongst my classmates - not everyone is a bit of an 'eat-clean' hun like myself - but the empty lunchbox by 11.15 told me that they were a success! Nobody seemed to notice the difference - even my housemate Rachel, caramel shortbread fanatic and simultaneous raisinphobe, ate one and thought it was delicious ;) 

These squares are no-bake. The base is gluten-free, dairy-free and vegan and the caramel is dairy-free and refined sugar free and can easily be made vegan by substituting honey for agave. I used normal chocolate on top but this also could be easily substituted for a vegan alternative :)
Use a square brownie tray to make these. 

Healthy Caramel Squares

caramelly heaven..

Ingredients

Base

180g ground almonds

100g oats

4 tbsp coconut oil, melted

2 tbsp honey

Optional: 50g desiccated coconut

Caramel

250g pitted dates

2 tbsp honey/agave

1 tbsp smooth almond butter

1/2 tsp vanilla extract

Dash of water

Topping

150g milk or dark chocolate

Method

1. Place the oats, ground almonds, sugar and coconut if using into a food processor and blitz briefly. Sitr in the coconut oil until combined. (If using honey, omit the sugar and melt the honey with the coconut oil.)

2. Press the mix firmly into the base of a tin lined with parchment paper - I had to use a large lunchbox and cling film due to lack of resources :P Place this in the freezer for 20mins until firm.

3. In the meantime, make the caramel. Place the dates into the food processor and blend until they have broken up and are starting to look like caramel. Add in the honey, almond butter and vanilla extract and blend to combine. Add a small amount of water - just enough that is necessary to loosen the mix. 

4. Take your biscuit base from the freezer and spread the caramel evenly on top. Return to the freezer for 1-1.5 hours until the caramel has set.

5. Once the caramel has set, remove the tin from the freezer. Melt the chocolate and spread on top. Allow to harden. 

6. When it comes to cutting the squares, take a cup of boiled water and a knife. Heat the knife in the water for a few minutes, wipe dry and then use to cut the chocolate. This should stop the chocolate breaking in large chunks and give you a clean cut. 

7. Store the squares in the fridge overnight or until you're ready for some guilt-free indulgence! :)

having a whale of a time

So, this is the first of those, ahem, weekly travel posts I loosely you promised a while ago :P apologies for the tardiness - I've been really busy the last while baking spelt scones, writing scenes for a panto and most recently, watching some of my classmates get half-naked on stage while wearing nipple tassles. But that's a story for another day ;)

Earlier in the blog I shared a picture of the moon that I took during my trip to Mexico in summer 2013. I spent four weeks in the Sian Ka'an biosphere reserve, located just south of Tulum, monitoring coral as part of a marine conservation project. The Sian Ka'an reserve includes a section of the Mesoamerican Barrier Reef.

I'm just HOOKED on diving...

All going well, we dived 8 or 9 times during the week, with weekends free to travel to local sites and cities. I could probably dedicate a whole blog to stories and photos from this trip - from diving with sting rays, barracudas, turtles and more, to guzzling tacos, to partying in Playa del Carmen (an excellent place to celebrate your 21st birthday, I'll have you know) - but for now, I'm just going to concentrate on one stand-out experience that remains to this day unlike anything else I've done.

Shark-diving was never something that had featured prominently on my extensive and ever-growing bucket-list. It wasn't that I found the idea daunting, or that I'd decided I wouldn't do it under any circumstances - the idea of being lowered into the sea in a confined space, unable to swim around, just didn't particularly appeal to me. So when fellow volunteers at Pez Maya (our camp in the Sian Ka'an) started recommending a trip to Cancun to dive with whale sharks, I was hesitant at first. However, they recounted a very different tale to what I had imagined. No cages, no barriers, but instead, the opportunity to actually dive in and swim freely alongside these amazing, colossal fish - I was sold. Jaws, here I come. 

The waters off Cancun play host to migrating whale sharks from mid-May to mid-September. Myself and another volunteer, Ali, went swimming with the sharks on our last weekend in Mexico. We booked with a company in Playa, and on the morning of the trip, travelled from there to the port in Cancun, where many tour companies convened to have breakfast, distribute life-jackets and rent out wetsuits. There were underwater disposable cameras for sale or Go Pros for rent, which usually I would dismiss as money-making gimmicks - however, this is one occasion when it's worth spending the money. You're deFINitely going to want pictures of this. Luckily, we were already equipped with a Go Pro, on loan from a fabulous Pez Maya buddy :)

It was a one and a half hour bumpy boat ride from the shore to where we would find the sharks, during which our anticipation and excitement continued to grow. The same could not be said for the grumpy German girl sitting across from us, whose face suggested that each bump drove the figurative stick further up her - ;) 

We were rEELly excited..

So it was to her relief and our delight that we arrived at the whale sharks' feeding area and joined the throng of boats already there. The 8 of us on our boat were divided up into 4 pairs, each pair having three opportunities to swim with the sharks. Our Mexican instructor fired off some rapid instructions - "Go when I say go swim ahead of de shark don't touch de shark don't get hit by de tail ees very painful" - wait, sorry; what was that last one?! "Ok, go go GO!"

I don't think I will ever forget that first moment when I stuck my head under the water and saw this 25-foot creature advancing towards me, its gargantuan mouth wide open and ready to swallow me up. The National Geographic profile on whale sharks comments on how "the beast.. passively filters everything in its path" - I still believe that if I hadn't gotten out of the way, that shark would have just gone on swimming and obliviously sucked me into its depths.

I'd ROD-ther not be eaten, thanks.

It was absolutely exhilarating. Our instructor would tell us where and when to look, and we would stick our heads under and fin furiously in an attempt to stay alongside these gentle giants. More than once I had to scramble to avoid being hit by a massive tail sailing serenely in my direction.. 

I'm not CODding you, I was struggling to keep up..

Ali and I couldn't resist swimming as close as possible to them, snapping away with the Go Pro at all times of course - here you can see the shark feeding on some small fish, and below you can see two remoras hitching a ride on his back!

If you need an idea of SCALE, there's me up in the corner - 

these guys are roughly the size of a bus!

We ended up getting to swim with them four times - grumpy German girl didn't want to take her last go, surprise surprise - and still it wasn't enough. It was surreal to be so close to such a huge creature, and for it to be completely unphased by our presence. If you ever need to be reminded of your insignificance in the world, I can assure you a whale shark is the creature to do it ;)

The boat ride back to the shore - and the rest of the day, for that matter - was spent reliving every second we'd spent in the water - they were "actually so big like" ;) It truely was an unforgettable affair and something I would recommend to anyone (bar maybe those with a fear of fish. I don't think any of you ichthyophobics out there would be too keen on it). The SOLE problem I had with it, much like a safari in Africa, was the potential disturbance casued to wild creatures by the sheer volume of tourists and the noise of the vehicles. It's hard to believe that this doesn't bother the sharks in some way - how great of a disturbance this is, I'm not sure. If you do ever find yourself in Cancun though, and you decide to swim with the whale sharks, make sure to do 3 things; 

1. Rent a Go Pro.

2. Get on the boat with the crabby European lady, in the hope that you can steal one of her turns later. And

3. Remember the phrase "passively filters". Ain't nobody want to end up like Jonah.  

(PS - I hope y'all noticed my none-too-subtle fish puns dotted throughout this post ;P )

spelt for choice :-)

I headed down to Athlone this weekend to visit my parents and avail of some lovely home comforts - the fireplace, the fridge, the fully-functioning shower.. One of my favourite things to do at home though is to take advantage of my mother's well-stocked cupboards and proper kitchen equipment - things our student house is definitely lacking - to bake and cook!

I'd planned on making coconut scones this weekend, after tasting a delicious one in Le Petit Parisien during the week. When I opened the press to get out my ingredients, an unfamiliar bag caught my eye. Wholewheat spelt flour. Hmm. I'd heard of spelt flour but had never used it in baking before. So I decided to experiment!

This is the flour I used - available in Holland and Barrett for €3.99!

I didn't have a recipe for these, so I was a bit nervy about how they'd turn out - but they got a warm reception from my trusted tasters :) Using frozen fruit does means they don't rise as much as other scones, so just have your oven really hot and don't have your mix too wet. 

Wholewheat spelt coconut and raspberry scones

Slurp.

Ingredients
- 200g wholewheat spelt flour
- 140g self-raising flour (***originally I said white flour and 1 tsp baking powder, but after further experimenting, I decided self-raising is the way to go!)
- pinch of salt
- 50g caster sugar
- 50g dessicated coconut
- 150g butter (I use Flora)
- a handful of frozen raspberries (or fresh blueberries)
- 1 egg, beaten
- 120ml buttermilk

Method
1. Preheat oven to 220 degrees. Sift your flours and salt into a large mixing bowl. Add the coconut.
2. Stir in the sugar.
3. Add in the butter and using your fingertips, rub it into the flour until the mix resembles dry breadcrumbs. As always, handle as little as possible!
4. Add the raspberries
5. Pour in the buttermilk and egg, retaining a little bit of the mix for a glaze. 
6. Bring everything together with your hand.
7. Flour a work surface. Turn the mixture out onto your surface and roll it out to a 4-5cm thickness. Using a scone cutter, cut out your scones and place on a floured baking tray. Brush the tops with your remaining egg-mix.
8. Bake for 15-20mins, until golden-brown.